Ban Puai Part 2 (9-10)

Friday night we went to the first of the official retirement parties—the one in Amnat Charoen for all the retiring teachers in the province. Dinner was the usual seven courses: appetizers, spicy fungus salad, fish, pork leg, fried rice, soup, and canned rambutan. After dinner, speeches were given and all 160 of retiring teachers stood on the stage to be briefly introduced, which took quite a while. Then there was entertainment—two singers. I was told that one of them is very popular in the province. We stayed until the end—10:30, which is quite late for these folks to be out.

I spent the weekend with Tony and his family, a much-needed retreat, as I’d been feeling like I was staying too long with Khun Toy and Khun Dakom and the week had been a little stressful. It was really good to chat and laugh with him. Sampong took advantage of having a guest and suggested an outing on Saturday. We went to one of the places along the Mekong River with floating “huts” for eating. I’d been to the ones on the river in Ubon, but I hadn’t been to these. We had a simple lunch and relaxed. Duncow and Tony swam in the river while Sampong and I just relaxed and enjoyed being on it. When we returned to Ubon, we stopped for a drink at a shop their friend’s family owns. There I met their Danish friend who lives with the woman at the shop. Sunday we hung out and went shopping for dinner, as Tony was making spaghetti. Another friend, Alfredo from Switzerland, and his wife joined us. Tony made one of the sauces with fish, which everyone liked. I really enjoyed relaxing with them and being on the farm. Boink was at a math competition; so I didn’t see her until Monday morning when we met briefly at breakfast. It was a good break for me, and I left feeling refreshed and more relaxed.

Monday morning I went with Khun Toy and Khun Dakom to stay at Wat Hua Don for a few days, which I was looking forward to since I always enjoy being there. Khun Toy and I did a quick walk in the forest to look for mushrooms, but they’d all been picked already. This turned out to be my only walk in the forest, as we were gone or busy the rest of the time we were there. I’d looked forward to a couple solo walks in the forest, as I always enjoy my time there, but it was OK that it didn’t happen. When we returned, we cleaned the mushrooms others had found and Khun Toy steamed them for the monks Tuesday morning.

At 11:30, we went to the cremation of the man who had died. I’d been to many cremations, but this one was special—about 1000 people, over 100 floral wreaths, many people wearing the national government uniform, dancers and singers, 30 monks, two large screens onto which everything was projected. We arrived at 12:00, and I was glad to have my Kindle along, as it was clear that nothing was happening for a while. When Yai Dam arrived, we went to greet her. She took my hand and held it for several moments, which really moved me. 

While we waited, people came around several times serving drinks. Live music was performed—very loudly—on the stage. Guests were given a book and a DVD about the man. I learned later that he was a nationally famous songwriter who wrote over 1000 songs. The king and queen sent a floral wreath. When it was time for the cremation, the casket was carried to the crematorium. Monks led the procession which went around the crematorium three times. Everyone in the procession held a string connecting them to the casket. Comments were made from the platform, a couple people sang, and dance groups performed. Everyone was given a box with a piece of cake and juice. We were also given the white paper flowers to place near the coffin. After everything was over, all the guests proceeded to the platform to leave our flowers. Then photos were taken with various groups and the family.

After the cremation, we went to dinner with Kwan and Baitoy at a restaurant on the river. 

While we were waiting for the food, I enjoyed the sunset over the river. Baitoy is now in 9^th grade and was confident enough to speak a little English with me, which was nice to see. Adin and his wife joined us later. Since they wouldn’t be joining the celebration on Wednesday, Kwan brought a cake. After we ate cake, two more dishes were brought. Needless to say, we ate well.

Tuesday we cleaned more mushrooms that Khun Toy had found on an early walk before I arrived in the kitchen. These were steamed and then set aside for her to take home. Then we went to a home for disabled people. As Khun Toy’s charity project for her birthday, she had prepared lunch that was delivered and purchased a lot of snacks. The monks from the wat also went, maybe to share the lunch, as they didn’t do anything there. When we returned to the wat, it was time to start preparing food for the meal Khun Toy was cooking for the monks Wednesday morning, her birthday. She had decided that, since I was there to help, she would make the laab duck, duck soup, and fried duck again. This time she bought three ducks, since there were twelve monks at the wat. One of the men who stays there skinned two of the ducks, amazingly taking the skin off in one piece. He also cut the meat into small pieces for the laab. From 3:00 to 7:00 I cut duck skin into small pieces and prepared garlic and shallots.

Wednesday morning I woke up at 4:00 to help Khun Toy cook her birthday offering for the monks; she started at 3:30 and had asked me to help at 4:30. It’s not everyone I would do that for. I sliced shallots and garlic for an hour. Then it was time to go out of the wat to meet the monks as they began their walk to collect food donations. When we returned, I helped get other donated food ready for serving. 

Khun Toy had also purchased two cakes for the monks. After they selected their food, Pra Kong said a short prayer for her. She had written something on a paper and put it in a bowl with a candle and lighter. He read it, said a little more, and then burned the paper.

The wat has changed since last year. It is always growing. The chedi that was being planned is now a structure that just needs to be completed. The workers were working on it while we were there. 

They are cutting down trees along the entrance road so that the chedi will be in full view as cars enter the wat. 

I really like the painting inside behind what will be the altar. Another building that will be a monastery (Khun Dakom’s description) is being constructed. I think the plan is for monks to come to the wat to study for extended periods. I learned later that the wood for this building came from Malaysia. 

They have a car—dark yellow—for the monks. 

They are creating a lovely garden, featuring a small waterfall, next to the main building where services are held. It changed from day to day. 

The old nun has died. The younger one, Maechi, who took care of her has stayed on and plans to stay until she dies. She is 53 years old and has been a nun for five years. She speaks some English, and I enjoyed talking with her a little. She went with us on Tuesday, and we stopped at her parent’s home—and her former home—in Ubon.

After breakfast, we returned home. We had a little time to sleep before leaving for Khun Suwit’s farm for the rest of the day. First there was lunch. One of the dishes was the wild mushrooms, which were delicious. Most of the dishes were pork, the meat of the day, but they fried some chicken for me. Three other couples joined the group during the day. A couple other women were also there to help with the cooking. I did my thing with shallots and garlic again, having become an expert, and removed leaves from herbs. I also peeled and cut potatoes and carrots. People who had not met me before took photos of this interesting event. It felt strange to be the object of such curiosity regarding a basic cooking skill.

Mostly I relaxed and read in Khun Suwit’s comfortable chair that reclines. There was also karaoke and a little dancing in the afternoon and evening. The granddaughters came after school, and I had a good time interacting with them. They’d run over, say “good afternoon” or my name, and then run off. The out-of-town guests stayed in Khun Suwit’s cabin for the night.

Thursday morning we woke at 6:30, which was beginning to seem late, to return to the farm to cook breakfast. I got to peel more shallots. After hanging out for a few hours, the party was over and everyone left. Having had a few busy days, it was nice not to have anything to do the rest of the day. Khun Toy was too tired to go to the wat for chanting, but we returned on Friday—both morning and evening.

Khun Toy and Khun Dakom have gone photo crazy now that they have smartphones. Tony and I talked about how Thais in general have gone photo crazy. At the cremation when the dancing groups performed, there were so many people who had to stand up close to take photos that people sitting couldn’t see the performance. Last year when I visited, Khun Toy and Khun Dakom were just learning to take photos and I taught them how to post on Facebook. Now they live on Line and Facebook and take photos all the time. I’m glad I lived here before they learned this skill, as taking photos and giving them the photos was one of the few things I could do for them. Photos were always on my camera. Now they take so many photos that I don’t have many on my camera, as I can’t always give it to someone to take a photo because they’re taking their own. And often when I do take a photo for them Khun Toy wants it on her camera. They enjoy posting them to share with all their online friends.