A Visit to a Village (5-17)

This weekend I went home with Phoebe, a Business English student who has been coming to office hours discussion this term. After the Tomb Sweeping holiday, she mentioned that her mother wanted to invite me but…. I filled in with “You were too shy to ask.” She agreed. After a few weeks, she mentioned a visit again, and last week it became a firm invitation that I was happy to accept. Over time, I have learned that “I invite you to visit …” really isn’t an invitation; rather it means “I suggest that you visit.” So I was happy when this invitation became a real one.

We left Friday morning after her class. The trip took four hours on three buses. The first was one of the nicest buses I’ve been on in China—large, comfortable seats with space between them. The next was the usual basic bus, and the last was a small village bus. Phoebe kept a conversation going on the first and last buses, and we rested on the second. I learned that many of the girls in her class envy my long legs. She asked about burial customs in the U.S. We talked about changing customs related to women having babies, which had brought up at English Corner. The tradition for Chinese women is to stay in bed for a month while mother and grandmother take care of the new mother.

On the way from Pujiang to Danjing, Phoebe said that she was worried that I couldn’t accept their toilet because it smells bad and is near the chickens. I assured her that it would be OK. (I figure anything can be OK for two days.) She explained that her family used to live in a village near a river. But eight years ago, the government moved them because the river was going to be dammed and the village would be underwater. Eight families were moved and live in a small neighborhood of two row houses. The government built the houses, but their quality is low. 

The eight houses share a water tank. They each have a plot of land on which they grow vegetables. They also have an orchard where they have many orange trees. Phoebe and a neighbor mentioned that the nearby tile manufacturing factory puts out smoke that is damaging the fruit trees, causing the leaves to turn yellow. 

They cull the oranges by picking newly-formed ones which are dried and sold to make traditional herbal medicine.

On the way from Pujing to Danling, the bus stopped so people could purchase loquats at the stalls along the road. This is loquat season and we were driving through loquat country; so there were many stalls. I had to tell Phoebe she couldn’t buy any because I had purchased loquats as a gift for the family. They had just appeared in the local markets and were a little expensive; so I thought they’d be a special treat. Little did I know that they are abundant—and, therefore, cheaper—in that area.

When we arrived in Danling, we walked across town to one of the four squares. This one has nine-dragon statue. We passed a few people selling peaches, and I decided to buy some for the family. Phoebe told me that the man gave me a discount because I’m a foreigner. How sweet! 

Another stop was a shop that sells the traditional rice bread steamed in corn husks. She bought some of every type. I’ve had these in other places and really enjoy them when I find them. At the square we met Phoebe’s sister, Nana, who is twelve years old and had just finished her day at school. Usually, she goes home with a friend until her parents pick her up after work in the evening.

After arriving at the house, I visited the toilet. It is on the outside of the house in a small room with the chicken coop behind it and doves on a shelf above. The toilet is a small trench that is covered with a basket when not in use. The smell wasn’t that bad. I don’t know what they do when the trench is full. There is also a toilet in the small indoor bathroom, but I’m not sure it’s used. Phoebe told me that I could use it if I needed a toilet during the night.

Then we walked up the hill where Phoebe pointed out the various types of fruit trees in addition to the orange trees—pear, peach, fig, walnut. 

Where there are not fruit trees, the area is covered with grape vines. Oranges and grapes are the main products. The grapes are sold for wine, which is a big business in the area. 

We saw some big, new houses being built by people who have lots of land and, therefore, make a lot of money selling their grapes.

One 73-year-old man was enthralled by the foreigner walking around with his neighbor and came to see me twice while we were walking. He seemed interested in my taking photos; so I took one of him and his orange tree. Then he invited us to his house where he gave us each an orange to eat. He gave Phoebe and me several more oranges to take home. There are two kinds of oranges, one of which is called Japanese oranges because they were originally imported from Japan. 

Many oranges—not Japanese oranges—on trees were wrapped in special paper bags. I learned that these are to protect them from the cold temperatures in the winter.

Phoebe prepared the vegetables for cooking. When she set them on the table in front of me and I offered to help, I was pleased that she accepted my help. My job was taking the kernels off the corn cob. Chinese people do this kernel by kernel, removing the whole kernel, rather than cutting them off as I usually do. Dinner was several vegetable dishes and one with pork for the meat-eaters. Phoebe’s mother had her tell me that, when they have guests, they usually serve lots of meat, which I remembered reading is traditional to show that they are special.

Phoebe’s parents work every day, leaving home at 7:00 AM and returning at 7:00 PM. Her father works in a factory that makes window frames (or something like that), and her mother works in a furniture factory.

Saturday morning Phoebe cooked noodles and potatoes with a special herb dried by her mother for breakfast. I don’t know what the herb was, but it gave the soup a tasty flavor. Then she, Nana, and I went for an outing in Danling. First we walked through the markets. One is a street market held on even days; so we were lucky. 

The other is a covered market that is always open. 

As always, I enjoyed the market and the people carrying their shopping baskets. 

Baby slings are different from ones I’ve seen before.

Next we walked to another square. This one has a statue of a special type of flute that is traditional in this region. Phoebe said they have applied for World Heritage status because the statue is very old and special.

Then we went to Daya Hall, a reconstructed temple/hall on top of a big hill that is now a museum mostly honoring famous poets. 

One building has wax images, which I always find hauntingly realistic. The second floor has a collection of the flutes. The eaves of the main building have carved bats, like the ones in Dujiangyan.

Our last stop was Phoebe’s high school. She wanted to show me the school and to introduce me to her English teacher, who was working on Saturday because seniors have special weekend classes to prepare for the gao kao. We arrived at the end of the lunch break, during which students and teachers had to remain in the classroom. The teacher and I chatted for about ten minutes before he had to return to class. His English is excellent. Shortly after we went down the four flights of stairs, Phoebe’s phone rang and the teacher asked if I would be willing to talk to his class. So back up we went. There are about 40 students in the class and all have individual desks. I really enjoyed being able to walk among them. Their desks were piled with notebooks. When I asked one boy about them, he said they are his notebooks for the exam. One boy asked a question right off. Then I had to point to random students, but they all came up with a question. The teacher stayed at the door in the back of the room. I figured that, when he wanted me to stop, he’d come to the front door; so I kept going. When I wrapped things up and took a step toward the door to leave, hands went up to ask questions. This happened about four times. One boy asked me to write a sentence for him. I came up with “Keep working hard and have a positive attitude and you will be successful” and wrote it on the board for everyone to read. A girl had asked me to write some words, and I had drawn a blank. Later I realized that she wanted me to write a sentence. Not just any sentence, but one with special meaning, which is what the boy was asking for. He also asked me to write it on his paper. So Jackie’s words of wisdom are recorded. Then the teacher came to the front to help finish the session. Several students came up and I anticipated photo time and was surprised when that didn’t happen, as it always happens. One boy had me autograph his notebook and a girl asked for a hug. Then the teacher said something, and I was able to leave. I enjoyed talking to these students. Some of them asked good questions, not just the usual “Do you like Chinese people?” types of questions that we always get. For most of them, this was their first time to talk to a foreigner. Everyone I pointed to spoke, which impressed me. When we were walking around the school, it occurred to me that the reason students didn’t take photos was that they didn’t have their phones. Phoebe confirmed that. No phones are allowed in classrooms. When she first went to the school and didn’t know that rule, her phone was confiscated for three months.

We stopped at the market to buy vegetables and a fish for dinner and oranges for me. Phoebe’s mother had eaten one of the oranges the man gave me; so they were buying more oranges (a box with 24) for me to take back. Back at the house, we all rested for a while and then prepared for dinner. I was allowed to help a little and then sent to the living room. After dinner, Phoebe’s father suggested that we have a group photo. He showered and shaved for the occasion.

Phoebe’s mother insisted on giving me a huge bottle (2 liters) of their homemade grape wine. It’s sweet and not very strong; so I like it. I tried to get a small bottle, but that didn’t work. She had Phoebe tell me that it has aged for three years. She also gave me a small bottle of numbing pepper oil. Again, I tried for half a bottle since I’m leaving, but she said I can share it with my friends, which I will do. When she was making the noodle soup, Phoebe showed me to use a small amount of the oil, which gives it flavor but isn’t numbing. I was also given six pieces of steamed rice bread. They are all different flavors, which I’ve enjoyed.

Sunday morning Phoebe made rice dumplings for breakfast. I helped roll the balls. Then we left to return to school. Phoebe had purchased bus tickets for a direct bus from Pujiang to Wenjiang. As we walked to our buildings on campus, Phoebe told me again that the weekend was a dream come true. I was happy to be able to do that for her, as I, too, enjoyed our time together and the opportunity to visit a family in a village.

Thursday I went to Chengdu for the next step in Raven’s earrings. When I arrived, Wu Lin Jin was out of the shop. Her mother called her and served Puer tea while we waited. Then we chatted for a bit before looking at the jade. When I commented that the bus trip into the city was faster than usual and there wasn’t much traffic, she said that that was because President Xi was in Chengdu. Traffic was reduced so the city would look good for him. Then she got out the three heart-shaped pairs of white jade, which were Raven’s choice, and we chose the best one. After more tea and chatting, we went to the jewelers to order a setting. It turned out to be the shop I had stopped at first where the man had called Wu Lin Jin. I thought that completed the circle—he called her and gave her some business and she returned to him to give him some business. We selected the gold and type of setting. She gave me a box of the Puer tea from her hometown. In addition to jewelry, she sells tea in the shop.

When I left, I received a message from Peggie that my glasses were ready. I had a walk through Culture Park and then headed back to Wenjiang to meet Peggie at the glasses shop. The new glasses are fine. I’ve noticed that I can use them when on the computer; whereas I have special computer glasses because the old ones aren’t good for the computer. I realized that one reason I was unhappy with the old glasses is that I often have to push them up when reading, and I thought that meant my eyes had changed. Then one day after ordering the new glasses I realized that the old ones needed new nose pads. So I had the woman at the shop replace the nose pads, and now they work fine. So I now have an abundance of glasses. I’ll wear the old ones for now, and they’ll be good back-up glasses.

I’m loving the new sunglasses that fit over my glasses. I’ve always used magnetic or clip on shades. Now I’ve become a “glasses on the head” person when I need to remove them briefly. This is my first pair of expensive sunglasses, and I now realize why people buy expensive ones. One of my students told me they are cool when I put them on after class. Then she put her sunglasses on so she could be cool, too. Had to have a photo of us cool ladies.