Hangzhou Part 2 (7-26)

Having correctly anticipated that West Lake would be crowded on the weekend, the first thing I encountered when I went out Saturday morning was two huge tourist groups. The main sites were packed all day, but in larger places it was possible to not be crowded. When I was planning the trip and reading about West Lake, I learned that one can rent a bicycle and ride around the lake, and I planned to do that. However, I found that I wasn’t really interested once I was here. I was more into walking and enjoying a slow pace. Also, the riding around the lake was riding on the streets or sidewalks among the traffic or walkers, which really didn’t appeal to me. This was more of a walking place.

After visiting a temple honoring a king near the hotel, 

I took a boat to Three Pools Mirroring the Moon, a small island that has three pools. I’d read that the picture on the back of the one yuan note is West Lake. The scene is off this island. The three knobs sticking out of the water that are on the note are roped off so boats can’t go too close. Otherwise no one would see them, as they would be surrounded by boats with people taking their photos next to the famous landmark. As it was, the area just outside the roped-off area was full of small boats that take people close to the famous scene. Although the scene on the money is from the water toward the island, everyone on shore was also having their photos taken with the landmarks in the background.

I spent a few hours walking around and enjoying the beautiful island. It is very small and compact. And it was crowded, but, as always, it was possible to get with smaller crowds sometimes. 

Some of the pools had the huge lotuses, which were blooming, and others had blooming water lilies. 

There are bridges across the pools. 

The island has several pavilions. 

One is in the shape of the backwards swastika, meaning “all is peace.” It is the only building in China in that shape. The weather was overcast, which gave a special atmosphere.

After returning to the mainland, I decided to relax in my room for an hour before heading to another site. This was the first day I stayed close to the hotel, so it was possible and was a good idea. Recharged, I headed to Prince Bay Park. I decided to take a bus there and walk back. The park is an area of green lawns, trees, and carp pools. I could tell it is a popular area because there were several tour groups there.

When I went to purchase corn on the cob, I discovered that my wallet was not in my bag. Either I had missed the bag and dropped the wallet when I was putting it back after getting money for the bus or the man standing close to me on the bus was a pickpocket. His pack was on his front and was above my bag; so if he was a good pickpocket, he possibly could have opened the flap and reached in without my knowing it. I don’t think so, but I have read that such things are possible. At any rate, I no longer had my wallet. The big losses are my driver’s license, my Chinese bank card, and my bus ticket. I didn’t have much cash in it. That is in another mini-bag; so I did still have some cash with me.

As I was leaving the park, it looked and felt like it would rain soon. A short while down the road I came to Leifeng Pagoda and had to go in. It was just beginning to rain when I entered. The pagoda is at the top of a hill, and there is an escalator to go up, stairs for walking down. 

The bottom level of the structure is ruins from the original pagoda, and the new one is built over the ruins. There is an elevator to the top of the pagoda as well as stairs. I opted for the stairs, as you can stop at the six different levels and the line for the elevator was quite long. 

Each level has different features: One has carved wood scenes of the history; one has paintings of the Buddha’s life; 

one has paintings of local areas. 

When I walked through a door on the fourth level, I thought I was walking into another room with paintings on the walls. Then I realized that it was the scene outside. The rain and mist made it ethereal. While we stood there, the wind became very strong and heavy rain began. By the time we got to the top level, there was no view at all—only the rain and white background. By this time, it had become a thunderstorm. Everyone stayed inside the pagoda for an hour and a half while the storm raged. Then it subsided and became just a heavy rain. So I joined those leaving to walk back. Instead of the leisurely stroll along the lake that I had anticipated, I had a quick walk back in the rain.

Since I no longer had my bank card that I was going to use to get cash for the next few days, I had to find a bank where I could use my U.S. card. The young woman at the desk told me that the closest bank is at Wushan Square. So I headed back there again. A policeman pointed me to the bank I needed. I found it, but it doesn’t have an ATM; so I asked the guard where one is. He pointed. A couple minutes later a girl approached from behind and asked if I wanted the Bank of China ATM. I guess she heard me ask the guard, but it was strange. She walked with me for several minutes to the street that has several banks, and we found one that I can use.

Next it was time for dinner. Walking back to the street that goes toward the hotel, I came to the food street I’d seen on Thursday. I chose the restaurant that advertises “We have an English menu.” It also has pictures, but it was such a treat to be able to read what things are and not have to guess. 

I selected a dish described as Hangzhou chicken with special sauce. The picture looked like pieces of chicken wrapped in tofu skin—tofu that is so thin that it is like skin. When I took a bit, I realized that it was not chicken, it was slivers of bamboo wrapped in tofu skin served with chunks of black mushrooms. It reminded me of the description of food that looks like one thing but isn’t, a specialty that was described in The Last Chef, a book about Imperial Chinese cooking which I had recently read. It was interesting to experience that after reading about it.

When I reached the intersection with the hotel’s street, I knew which way to turn. Now that I was familiar with the area, it’s was time to leave, which often happens when traveling.

 Update: Ten days after leaving Hangzhou, I received an email from the booking company saying that my wallet had been found near the hotel and returned to the hotel. I was instructed to contact the hotel by email, which I did. I sent them Peggie’s address in Chinese and asked them to mail the wallet to her. Ten days after sending the email to the hotel I have had no response; so I don’t know what is happening. At least I know that I was not pickpocketed by the young man who I didn’t want to think had done that and that I did indeed drop the wallet when I was not being alert. Somehow I felt better knowing this.